Kameer veel atkal neesmu izdomaajis likt tirgot umku
shodien draudzinsh sanjeema daavanu
bremzudiski.JPG (131.86 KiB) Viewed 4987 times
Novinka Veelos pateikties kriizei vai vanjkam, kas bija pasuutijis shos
diskus, bet pazudis ar galiem.
Tuvakajas dienaas tiks iepirkti arii bremzhu kluchi.
Shodien veel tika pasuutiiti spogulju stiklinji, kuri man sagaadaaja paarsteigumu
atgriezhoties no Austrijas, laikam oksideejaas un bija palikushi bruuni
Next attempt-Seedinaajums
Lai arī manējie nodiluši nejēgā, bet savērpušies nav, stūri nemētā pa rokām :neka:
Hvz, ka tik nav kādi 100 km jāiebrauc mierīgi bez straujas bremzēšanas. Kaut ko tādu es atceros
Man priekša bij 40% ovalitāte vienam diskam. Sākot no 100 km/h bailes pieskarties bremžu pedālim, jo vibrācijas uz stūres bij tādas, ka uz muguras zosāda metās.
Šodien biju restaureet kreisaa plaukta lodbalstu (aareejo) iekshejie
nerestaureejas. Par laimi ar ieksheejo viss ok.
Viss chotka, negrab, cerams, ka turees kaadu laiku pa muusu celjiem
Bremzes ir jāpiedeldē 1km nevis jāčakarējas 100km ar piebraukšanu.
From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
R6 spēks S54B32+2JZ-GE
Braukt ir priex
p.s. mans viedoklis ir autoritatīvs un vienīgais pareizais.
Veelos pateikties kriizei vai vanjkam, kas bija pasuutijis shos
